Repairing Kerb Damage on Alloy Wheels Yourself: A Guide

You can repair kerb damage on an alloy wheel yourself as long as it is purely cosmetic: scratches and scuffs on the rim flange are cleaned, sanded smooth, degreased, primed, painted in the wheel's colour and sealed with 2K clear coat. If there are cracks, dents in the rim flange or radial run-out, a spray can won't fix it – the wheel belongs in a specialist workshop.

In this guide we show you how to tell the difference, how the repair works step by step, roughly what it costs and what to watch out for on a leased car.

Is kerb damage on a wheel dangerous?

Most kerb damage is annoying to look at but technically harmless: the paint and a thin layer of aluminium on the outer edge of the rim have been scraped off, nothing more. A hard impact can, however, also affect the structure of the wheel and tyre. So before any repair, check:

• Cracks: hairline cracks in the rim flange or spokes are a safety risk. A cracked wheel is not sanded and painted – it is assessed by a specialist.
• Deformation: if the rim flange is dented or wavy, the tyre can no longer seal properly at that point. That is not a job for a home workshop either.
• Radial or lateral run-out: if the steering wheel vibrates after hitting the kerb or the wheel visibly runs out of true, the rim may be bent. Have the wheel checked on a balancing machine.
• Tyre sidewall: a bulge or cut in the sidewall points to a damaged carcass. The tyre must then be replaced.
• Tyre pressure: check the pressure in the days after the damage. If the wheel loses air, the sealing surface between tyre and rim may be affected.

Only when all of this looks fine is a DIY repair worthwhile. If in doubt, have it checked once more – the wheel carries the car.

What you need for the repair

• GLOSSDOC Wheel Cleaner for thorough pre-cleaning
• Sandpaper in several grits, a sanding block and, for deeper gouges, a filler suitable for metal
• GLOSSDOC Silicone Remover and clean, lint-free microfibre cloths
• Masking tape and masking paper or film
• GLOSSDOC 1K Epoxy Primer Grey for exposed metal
• Base coat in the glossary in your wheel's colour (silver or anthracite, for example)
• 2K clear coat, such as GLOSSDOC 2K Clear Coat Gloss – matched to your wheel's finish
• Optionally GLOSSDOC 1K Blending Paint for soft transitions
• Gloves, safety glasses and a respirator

You will find all products for the paint build-up together in the Car & Wheel Repair category.

Repairing kerb damage on a wheel yourself: step by step

1. Clean: shake the wheel cleaner, spray it on from about 15–20 cm, leave it to work briefly without letting it dry, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Otherwise brake dust in the glossary and dirt in the gouges will end up in the paint. Then let the wheel dry completely.

2. Mask: cover everything that shouldn't get paint on it – tyre, valve, wheel bolts, centre cap and adjacent undamaged areas of the wheel. We explain how to do this with the tyre fitted further down.

3. Sand: first sand the damage smooth with coarser paper until you can no longer feel any burrs or raised edges. Then work up to finer grits and lightly key the surrounding paint so the new coat has a surface to bond to. Fill deep gouges with filler first and sand it flush. The aim is a surface that feels smooth with your eyes closed.

4. Degrease: apply the silicone remover to the repair area and wipe it off with a clean, lint-free microfibre cloth. From now on, don't touch the surface with bare fingers – skin oil causes fish eyes in the paint.

5. Prime: wherever bare aluminium is exposed, use the epoxy primer. According to the product information, one to two even, thin coats are usually enough. Once fully dry, lightly sand and degrease again.

6. Paint: apply the base coat in several thin passes and let it flash off between coats. Three wafer-thin coats are better than one thick one that runs.

7. Apply clear coat: the 2K clear coat protects the colour and determines the finish. Activate the can as described on the label and bear in mind that an activated 2K paint can only be used for a limited time (pot life). Again: thin, even passes with flash-off time in between. You'll find details on activation and application in our article 2K clear coat in a spray can.

8. Blend the transition: for a partial repair, spray the blending paint onto the edge of the fresh clear coat so there is no visible edge to the old paint.

9. Let it cure: carefully remove the masking and give the paint time to cure fully before you wash or load the wheel. The exact times are on the label of each product.

How to repaint a complete wheel and which mistakes are typical is covered in detail in our guide Paint your wheels yourself like a pro.

Painting a wheel with the tyre on: masking properly

For kerb damage you don't need to have the tyre removed. What matters is masking the edge between rim flange and tyre sidewall cleanly:

• Let some air out of the tyre so the sidewall comes away slightly from the rim flange. Then push masking tape into the gap so it covers the rubber right at the edge of the rim.
• Cover the rest of the sidewall generously with paper or film. Overspray travels further than you'd think.
• Mask the valve, wheel bolts and centre cap individually.
• Remove the tape as soon as the paint is touch-dry, then inflate the tyre back to the specified pressure.

If the damage runs all the way round or you want to paint the whole wheel, a dismounted wheel without the tyre is the better choice – the result will be more even.

Kerb damage on a wheel: DIY vs. workshop costs

A DIY repair mainly costs materials. As a guide: silicone remover, epoxy primer and 2K clear coat from our shop cost around 30 to 50 euros together at the time of writing, depending on can size and whether you add the blending paint. On top of that come sandpaper, masking material and base coat in the right colour. If the cans go far enough, one set of materials can also cover several small repairs.

What a workshop charges depends on several factors: wheel size, depth and length of the damage, surface (painted, diamond-cut or polished) and whether just one spot or the whole wheel is refinished. It's best to ask for a specific quote. Diamond-cut wheels are a special case: the bright surface is created on a lathe and cannot be reproduced with a spray can and sandpaper.

Kerb damage on a leased car's wheels

When a leased car is returned, the wheels are assessed in the return report. Many leasing companies use a damage catalogue that defines which kerb marks count as normal wear and tear and which are charged for. Before you get to work yourself, it's worth checking your contract and the associated return guidelines: some providers accept a professional smart repair, others treat visible differences in the paint as a defect. If in doubt, ask the leasing company directly. This is not legal advice, but it helps make sure a well-meant repair doesn't count against you on return.

Frequently asked questions

Can you repair kerb damage on a wheel yourself?

Yes, if the damage is purely superficial. Cracks, deformation or radial run-out, on the other hand, belong in a specialist workshop.

Is it enough just to sand down the kerb damage?

No. Sanded aluminium is left unprotected. Without primer, paint and 2K clear coat, moisture and road salt will attack the area.

Which clear coat should I use on the wheel?

A 2K clear coat in your wheel's finish – gloss, satin or matt. It is far more resistant than 1K clear coat, which matters with brake dust and wheel cleaners.

When does kerb damage need a workshop?

With cracks, a dented rim flange, imbalance, air loss or damage to the tyre sidewall – and with diamond-cut wheels, whose surface cannot be reproduced with a spray can.