Guide
Car care glossary
The key terms in car care and paint repair – explained briefly, with the right products. For step-by-step instructions, see the Guide.
0–9
- 1K paint
- Single-component paint: it dries as the solvent evaporates – no hardener needed. Easy to use, but less resistant to chemicals and fuel than 2K paint.
- 2K clear coat
- Two-component paint made of paint and hardener that react chemically. In the aerosol can, the hardener is released just before spraying. The result is hard, glossy and resistant to fuel, chemicals and UV light. View 2K clear coat →
B
- Base coat
- The paint layer that gives the colour. It sits between primer and clear coat and relies on the clear coat for protection and gloss.
- Beading
- On a protected surface, water forms round droplets and runs off instead of forming a film. A sign that the sealant or wax is still working. See also lotus effect. View paint protection →
- Blending thinner
- Sprayed onto the edge of fresh clear coat in a spot repair. It dissolves the overspray so the new paint blends into the old one without a visible edge. View blending paint →
- Brake dust
- Wear debris from brake pads and discs. It sticks to the wheels and can bake on with the heat – remove it regularly with a wheel cleaner. View wheel cleaner →In the guides: Car Wash Guide · Paint Your Wheels Yourself Like a Pro – Guide & Tips
C
- Ceramic coating
- Sealant based on silicon dioxide (SiO₂) that cures into a hard, smooth layer. It usually lasts much longer than wax but needs properly prepared paint. View paint protection →In the guides: Car Wash Guide
- Clear coat
- The colourless top layer over the base coat. It provides the gloss and protects the colour from UV light, scratches and the environment. View 2K clear coat →In the guides: Paint Your Wheels Yourself Like a Pro – Guide & Tips
E
- Epoxy primer
- Primer based on epoxy resin. It adheres well to bare metal, protects against corrosion and forms the base for base coat and clear coat. View epoxy primer →
F
- Fish eyes
- Small round craters in fresh paint. They are almost always caused by traces of silicone, wax or grease on the surface – so degrease thoroughly before painting. View silicone remover →
- Foam cannon
- Attachment for a pressure washer that mixes cleaner with water and air into thick foam – the tool for a snow foam pre-wash. View Snow Foam →
G
- Graphene
- Carbon in a layer just one atom thick. In car care products it forms a smooth, water-repellent protective film on the paint. View Graphene FX spray →
- GSM
- Grams per square metre – the weight of a microfibre cloth. The higher the value, the thicker and more absorbent the cloth. View microfibre cloths →
L
- Lotus effect
- Named after the lotus plant, whose leaves repel water: droplets roll off the surface and take dirt with them. View Aqua Shield →
M
- Microfibre
- Synthetic fibres finer than a silk thread. They pick up dirt and water instead of pushing them across the paint – which is why microfibre cloths clean with minimal scratching. View microfibre cloths →In the guides: Car Wash Guide · Paint Your Wheels Yourself Like a Pro – Guide & Tips
P
- Plastic care
- Unpainted plastic parts such as bumpers and trims fade in UV light and turn grey. Plastic care restores the colour and protects the surface. View Ever Black →
- Polish
- Contains fine abrasives that remove a very thin layer of paint – taking out swirls, fine scratches and dull spots. Protect with wax or sealant afterwards.
- Pot life
- The time a 2K material can be used after activation. After that it hardens in the can – so only activate it once everything is prepared. View 2K clear coat →
- Pre-wash
- The first step before the hand wash: soak and rinse off loose dirt so it isn’t rubbed across the paint while washing. View washing & pre-wash →In the guides: Car Wash Guide · Buying car care products online: how to recognise quality and avoid bad buys
R
- Rain repellent
- Sealant for glass: rain beads up and is blown away by the airflow at higher speeds – keeping your view clearer. View Rain Doc →
S
- Sealant
- A protective layer on the paint that makes water bead and shields the surface from dirt and the environment. Applied after washing, on clean, dry paint. View paint protection →In the guides: Car Wash Guide · Buying car care products online: how to recognise quality and avoid bad buys
- Silicone remover
- Removes grease, wax and silicone from the surface. A must before any painting – otherwise the paint adheres poorly and fish eyes appear. View silicone remover →In the guides: Paint Your Wheels Yourself Like a Pro – Guide & Tips
- Snow foam
- Thick foam sprayed onto the car with a foam cannon. It softens dirt before the hand wash and rinses it away – so less dirt rubs across the paint when you wash. View Snow Foam →In the guides: Car Wash Guide
- Spot repair
- Repairing a small paint defect just where it is, instead of repainting the whole panel. Typical steps: degrease, prime, paint, clear coat, blend the edge with blending paint. View Car & Wheel Repair →
T
- Twisted loop
- Microfibre cloth with twisted loops. The loops absorb a lot of water – ideal for drying after washing. View drying towel →
- Two-bucket method
- Hand washing with two buckets: one with shampoo solution, one with clean water to rinse the wash mitt before each dip. That way less dirt goes back onto the paint. View car shampoo →In the guides: Car Wash Guide
W
- Wash mitt
- Microfibre or sheepskin mitt for hand washing. It traps dirt in its fibres instead of pushing it across the paint like a sponge.In the guides: Car Wash Guide
- Wax
- Classic paint protection made from natural (e.g. carnauba) or synthetic waxes. It adds depth of gloss and makes water bead, but usually lasts less long than a sealant. View paint protection →In the guides: Car Wash Guide
Missing a term? Write to us – we’ll add it to the glossary.